Ryohei Kameyama is the third climber of an 9a boulde with the first repeat of No Kpote Only!
And Nicolas Januel sends Le pied à coulisse after 16 years of attempts.10 March 2019
Two incredible ascents in Fontainebleau
Fontainebleau is once again a witness of the great level of Ryohei Kameyama! In 2017 this silent Japanese impressed with the quick ascents of the 8C of The Big Island and Jour de Chasse but this time he went even further!
Only 4 sessions to gain the first repetition of No Kpote Only by Charles Albert, the second line in the world proposed as a possible 9a and the first to be repeated!
On the French site fanatic-climbing.com Ryohei explains that he climbed this extreme line with a new method, using a heel-hook and an intermediate hold not considered by Charles Albert who, as usual, climbed the boulder barefoot.
Kameyama is also one of the few to have tried the 9a of Burden of Dreams and declares that the line by Hukkataival is in his opinion harder, proposing a downgrade to 8C+/9a for Albert’s line. A proposal however open to the opinion of Ryohei, who claims not to have tried so many hard lines to have a more complete comparison.
Again in Bleau we witness another great exploit, still on a well-known boulder: the 8C/8C+ of Le Pieds a Coulisse by Guillaume Glairon Mondet.
From his instagram page, Nicolas Januel announces the repetition, the third after that of Jimmy Webb and Charles Albert. A climb characterized by an incredible determination behind it, since Nicolas took over 16 years to send it, as he reports:
“Yesterday I tried to remember exactly when I climbed this line for the first time. I think it was in 2003 during a session with my friend Yohan Dard. If I had known that I would put 16 years to succeed...But the D day was yesterday. After 16 years, 40 sessions, 200 attempts, hundreds hours to find the best sequences....I did it!!!!! I would have liked to realize the FA but I was not strong enough a few years ago when we shared a lot of time working the line with Guillaume Glairon Mondet. But it does not matter anymore, I did one of those problem that I never thought I could do 10 years ago. And I think it's the best feeling of my climber’s life. Time to turn my eyes to the next one and let this magical part behind me.”