Simo Tentori climbs the first 8C of Val Masino!

The first ascent of Megalodonte

20 April 2021
One of the great projects in Val Masino becomes the hardest line in the whole of Valtellina!

 

In these days characterized by bad news coming from Val di Mello (due to the destructions that the Ersaf project is causing here), it is instead very positive to talk about a great climbing exploit, which leads to the birth of the first 8C boulder problem in Val Masino!

In the historic valley of Italian bouldering, one of the most famous locations in the world thanks also to the many editions of Melloblocco, it is Simone Tentori who writes another important bouldering page with the first ascent of Megalondonte, for which he proposes the 8C.

A wonderful project proposed in the context of one Melloblocco and that remained unsolved for over ten years. It was Adam Ondra who tempted it, climbing the two lines which, with their harder sections, form this kingline.

Simone has dedicated the last few months to this dream, of which he reported the news of the ascent on his Instagram profile:

Some thoughts about Megalodonte. What a journey!!

I spent the last 4 months climbing in Val Masino, trying this thing on and off.

I knew that if I wanted to push my limit further I had to invest lot of time focusing on just one hard bloc. Many times I wanted to quit and climbing on something else, but I forced myself to keep going and in the end it was worth it. Magic happens sometimes.

It's the connection of two existing lines. A physical 8B with compressions on an overhang fridge with one heinous heelhook move followed by an 8A+ with a desperate swing and tricky moves. It was an old project and I'm so glad to have done the first ascent and propose the hardest problem of the valley.

A huge thanks go to my friends who supported me through this process. I'm so happy to have shared with them some precious moments and they raise the value of this great experience, no doubt.

About the difficulty I can just say that for sure it's one of the hardest thing I've ever tried and the problem that took me the most time and effort. I know that it's quite brave to call my first 8C with a FA, but I'd be lying to myself if I didn't. Anyway is just a proposal and I hope it can be a reason for other strong climbers to enjoy more this amazing valley.

I finally found inner peace and I'm so thankful to have made it through this journey

 

Great job Simone!!!

Albertaccia

Fonte: Instagram

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