Sinaway: an 8B+ first ascent for Isabelle Faus!
A terrifying highball just behind home for this strong american boulderer15 July 2020
Fourth boulder of this difficulty for Isabelle.
For some time Isabelle Faus has remained silent, but now she is back with a really exceptional ascent, on a boulder hidden in the woods behind her home in RMNP, Colorado.
To the side of a cliff, Isabelle found this compression roof which goes up to climb a face high on the top, exposed near the cliff with a potentially very dangerous fall!
Until a rest hold before the exit the difficulty already joins the 8B, but, climbing and daring to the top, the difficulty also gains an additional +.
About two weeks ago, on an particular day and with a particular mood, Isabelle managed to get to the rest hold and from there she let herself go mentally and went on without fear, managing to climb this new line, partially shown in the video she published on her profile.
She named this new boulder Sinaway and it is the fourth 8B+ in her career, but the first of which she made a first ascent.
Before it, Isabelle repeated indeed Amandla in Rocklands, The Wheel of Chaos and Memory is Parallax, both in the RMNP.
Below is her story about the ascent of this new testpiece, where body and mind are pushed to their limits!
“Climbed this thing a couple weeks ago. It sits in the side of a cliff and is suspended off the ground. It’s a compression roof to hiiiiigh ball. I found it exploring in the woods by my house. Because of the way it’s sitting in the cliff there plenty of room to climb the face, but falling off the top section means hitting the wall behind you and falling like 25 feet. Probably get fucked up. did the stand first starting on the vertical rail. That one is maybe v12. From the low start, I fell on the move to the “rest” hold for a couple days. The rest hold is pretty good but most of ur weight is on your hands so it’s hard to really recover, after a few shakes you just start to get more tired. from there you either commit to the top or jump off, @dawoods made it up there 3 times and bailed... it is certainly v13 just to get to that hold... and the ending is techy/super crimpy. I go right hand to a small vertical crimp and get a high right foot next to it , and have to do a subtle left hand dead point to a bad slopey crimp. Then is the crux move of the whole boulder. A huuuuuuge lock off to the lip... like when your looking at it from underneath it seems impossibly far.. it’s very intimidating. When we went to the boulder this day I was honestly not in the best mood, but I think that helped me in the end. Just getting to the jug was limit for me so I really wanted to just commit to the top if I got there. I was honestly scared and sweaty, but my bad mood made me not really care.. I was just like I’m doing this.. I don’t care what’s happening in my head and I didn’t really care about falling for some reason... going for the last move it felt like I was going to come up short but I some how made it (…)”
News: Rock&Ice / Instagram