Great Japanese domination on the rock all over the world!
From Red Rocks to Ticino and back in Japan!02 December 2019
Days of great ascents!
For Japanese climbers it was not enough to dominate international bouldering competitions in groups... now their strength is increasing even on the boulders, both at home and abroad!
Let's start from the legend, one of the strongest boulderers in the world for many years now, Dai Koyamada! Now well over 40 years of age, Dai is not tired of exploring and dedicating himself to very hard projects, especially in Japan: the last one he sent is in Shirakawa, he needed a dozen sessions and even had a bad injury to a shoulder in a fall. A long line still unnamed and characterized by several complex and technical movements for which Koyamada suggests a difficulty of 8C+.
Just a few days ago Ryuichi Murai climbed United, another 8C + at Monte Mizugaki, before leaving for Ticino to try the many testpieces there: despite the bad weather of last weeks he managed to send the famous 8B+ by Off The Wagon in Val Bavona, which on Instagram he defined as one of the "lifetime ticks". Again on Instagram, he announced that he had then closed the legendary The Story of Two Worlds, the iconic 8C line in Cresciano.
Let's move to Red Rocks, where Toshi Takeuchi did another repeat of Squoze, the 8C climbed by Jimmy Webb a year ago.
Finally, we return again to Japan and again to Mount MIzugaki: here Tomoa Narasaki does an ascent that projects him to the world top also on the rock!!! Already qualified for the next Olympics, the winner of the 2019 Bouldering World Cup did a flash ascent of Decided, the stand start of the newborn United ... and it's an 8B+ flash!
Here are his instagram comments:
"WOW‼️ I FLASHed ”Decided ” V14 which I’ve been willing to climb for long. Meanwhile a year past from the last time touching wild boulders, I tried with my strong emotion. I instantly felt holdings and beta are somehow friendly to me. Then, I could FLASH it and it’s my best flashing grade record"
News: Fanatic Climbing / Instagram