A new masterpiece by Giuliano Cameroni!
In Magic Wood he climbed Power of Now, 8C30 June 2020
A majestic overhang that becomes one of the hardest lines in the famous Swiss area
Inevitably with the arrival of the hot Magic Wood begins to crowd... It was difficult, however, to imagine that there could still be room for new discoveries since it is more than fifteen years that this area is on the crest of the wave!
Despite this, Giuliano Cameroni managed to find a line that is truly incredible: a great overhang that intimidates just looking at it, characterized by balance movements at the beginning to arrive at an aesthetic dyno and the crux to exit to get the lip.
Just watch the video above, published by Giuliano on the Mellow channel, to verify what it is ...
The strong swiss climber needed several days to find the methods and start the attempts from the beginning, but on the fourth day he finally managed to hold the lip without losing his feet and climb on top of the boulder: the first ascent of the 8C of Power of Now!
An inner journey too, which Giuliano well explains in his Instagram post:
“YES so psyched to have done this one, for sure one of the coolest boulders I’ve ever seen. Starts with World Cup dihedral straight into a perfect dyno to a good hold, then a few set up moves on sculpted grips lead into the crux, a huge dynamic yet technical move to the lip. The wall is around 60 degrees so although the holds are good they are so far apart that it didn’t feel possibile to stick the lip while cutting the feet. Having good sensations and enough tension on the right foot in order to stick the move became pretty mental. Getting there it’s pretty hard already, and the last move needs to be executed with the right flow. The key was to focus on the moment. So many times on dynamic moves it’s easy to start thinking. When you are free of thoughts and fear of messing up, you just focus on the now, which is an extra element that helps your way up your climb. Being in the present moment is not only necessary in climbing but it helps life in general, it gives joy and takes away weird pressure from the egoistic mind. Meditation takes away negative ideas and helps being in comfort with your whole body and respect nature and other people.”