An 8C+ FA for Ryuichu Murai!

In Shiobara he sends Nexus

25 October 2021
One of the strongest Japanese boulderers of all time still author of a world top line!

 
For those who follow the world bouldering scene Ryuichi Murai is certainly a well known name! Since the middle of the last decade, this strong Japanese climber has distinguished himself several times on the boulders all over the world, with many reference 8Cs climbed in a short time. At the same time, Murai has always been active on his home rock too, with many extreme ascents, including the FA of Decided SD's 8C+ at Mount Mizugaki in November 2019.

Almost two years after that climb, Ryuichi is now back as the protagonist with a new top-level FA, the project UMA extension now becoming Nexus, also graded 8C+. A 40-movement ride in the Shiobara area that cost him five years of trial and which ascent he announced on Instagram, where he also reported the following comment:

 
“Finally! Super psyched to have done my long standing project 'UMA extension'. The difficulty in achieving this line was that in addition to the large number of moves and high strength, the accumulation of mental stress due to slight squeaks and mistakes greatly affected performance. Therefore, it was important not only for endurance but also for how sophisticated the movement could be. After understanding the logic, I thoroughly reviewed all the moves again and practiced repeatedly until my body naturally started to move without thinking. And yesterday, all the pieces fit perfectly, and the five-year puzzle was finally completed. This line consists of nearly 40 moves and I was worried about the boulder grade. However, I propose V16 because it felt harder than the similar lines "Babel (V15/8C)" in Shiobara and "In search of time lost (V15/8C)" in Magic Wood. Wanna compare it with Grand Illusion someday.”


It would be really interesting to see boulderers from Europe and USA finally visit the boulders of Japan, to try the many extreme lines that are certainly not lacking here!

Albertaccia

News: Instagram

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