29 Aug Magnus Midtbö 9b in Rodellar
Today Norvegian climber from Bergen has done the second ascent of the sit start of Ali Hulk extension, a route established by Dani Andrada on 2006 and graded 9b.
This the second absolute repeat of a 9b route, after Golpe De Estado by Adam Ondra.
Magnus worked 3 weeks on the route: "I am so relieved! – writes on his blog – (…) I did it on my first try of the day. I felt very strong – it didn’t feel as desperate as before! I also had good conditions. There was a nice breeze for the first time in a while. I have never put so much time towards a climb before. It sure payed off in the end. For those of you who have seen Dani Andrada on film trying the route, I do it a little different. I climbed the first part without a rope, but with a harness. When I got to the rest at the end of ali baba sit start I got a rope clipped into my harness with a carabiner. Dani got someone to put the harness, with the rope on him."
Ali Hulk extension is a link of the sit start of Alì Hulk (9a+ including a 7C boulder then an 8c roof – 25 meters) with 8 meters more graded 8b+.
Source: Blog Magnus Midtboe