28 Jan Adam Ondra, present and future

During the Find Your Way 2013, organized by Chiodo Fisso, which UpClimbing.com was official mediapartner, we had the pleasure to meet Adam Ondra. In a shopping centre that was gradually filling up more and more for his meeting, Adam told us about this new year will be a sort of turning point for him, his plans for the future and how they will change his way of life; narrating whit the usual humility and simplicity that characterize the true Greats.

ADAM ONDRA, PRESENT AND FUTURE
Interview by Stefano Michelin

I know that the last year you want to focus on two thinks: competitions and 9a on-sight. Tell me something about this new vision…
Everything is related to the last year and the fact that I started university. Till now, I climbed a lot on the rock and the challenge was always whit myself, not whit others. When I finished school, I was able to travel or to spot myself when I wanted, more or less, but this is incompatible whit the study. Competitions are ideal to reconcile passion and study, they are compatible.

Will you modified your approach to training or days on cliffs?
Yes, of course. I’ll organize everything to arrive 100% ready. Before I had all time I need and was able to say “Ok, this is not the day for a realization, I can return tomorrow” but this year have do to the best of myself exactly the competition day. Kranj was the turning point. I was in final and watching to route, I decided only that I must do it! No other matters in that moment but the route. I was so excited.

What’s your program in a typical day to climb? Worming up, attempts, resting time…
I start on a 7a or 7b route and then on the route I want to climb. Generally, I begin to sweep the holds but then I have to rush. I don’t need a lot of routes to be ready. When I fell ok, I climb to the maximum cause I’m full of energy.

Is it so also for Vasi Vasil? Did you think it was so difficult?
Not so hard. It’s only a power question; two years ago I did that movement but then I didn’t go on. The single one was done but to link all in a unique sequence I needed more…power!

And here in Carnia, do you have something interesting?
Oh yes. This 9a (Nove G) isn’t easy, very continuous! 25 difficult meters.

Do you think that this area has a potential?
Sure, like climbing in general! Here is above all a climb on vertical wall, that I don’t love particularly, before to try Eternit…

Oh yes, some days ago you was whit Manolo to try Eternit! How is it?
Hard! I don’t climb it again; an incredible route.

Vertical wall and extreme overhanging, the two faces of the same sport, but will it exist a 9c on a vertical and compact wall?
Of course, I have no doubts! I really have only one reason not to believe it. We just have to find it and bolt it. There is, somewhere, and sooner or later it will be found!

Training and talent, what is more important? Where is it possible to arrive whit one and the other?
Whit talent you can reach your targets in a easier way but whit practice you can go over your limits! When you are very ambitious, you have to train and you do it because you just want to obtain the results that have in your mind. I know I have a gift and I trained myself a lot but never like Patxi (Usobiaga) for example. He is a myth, really a unique person; he isn’t so talented as others but he was World Champion! He did everything to became the best and it succeeded.

Have you ever followed a training for a specific route?
Yes, for Vasil Vasil. I dedicated myself only on power. I was all there.

And then did you started whit general training?
Oh yes, if I don’t climb, I feel that my endurance goes down. During Christmas Holyday, I don’t climb completely for 2-3 weeks; I disconnect my mind and body but then I can’t climb an 8a! It’s always like that: you think to recover but in reality when you restart, you have less power than before. You must go on, go on and go on, always, and believe it!

Have you ever thought about dangerous disciplines like Hard Grit or free solo for example?
Absolutely not; it’s very far from my interest. Some time ago, I fell from 5 meters and that was enough. In Flatanger it’s possible to climb Hard Grit but why? It would be too dangerous and anyway you cannot do certain things.

Do you think that there is again the question of spit? Even in Czech Republic there are circles where isn’t considered ethical to climb using spit? Especially if you compare this kind of rock climbing, even on big walls, with classic mountaineering?
No, I think not. They are two separate but complementary worlds, one of which I do not care. I appreciate who do alpinism and one day perhaps, I’ll climb the Trango Tower for example or in Patagonia but for the moment, this year, I do the World Cup and then I’ll decide…