Bouin: a 9c DNA! - Up-Climbing

Bouin: a 9c DNA!

Seb Bouin has climbed DNA, the second 9c in history!

Since Ondra‘s ascent of Silence, only Megos had proposed 9c for his FA, which was later re-evaluated 9b+. From the end of April 2022, in this very small circle of super-gifted, a new name is making its way: Seb Bouin! The French climber has in fact come to the head of his hardest and longest project, born in one of the most important vertical climbing destinations in history.

In the summer of 2019 Seb sensed the line and laid the foundations for what would be his longest-running project. Three years later, with around 150 sessions of work, the perfect attempt has arrived. At the end of April 2022 Seb went to the famous La Ramirole crag (Verdon) and freed his masterpiece: DNA. With a great awareness of grade 9 in general and with the humility to leave the evaluation on confirmation to posterity, Seb proposes 9c. If confirmed, it would be the hardest route in France, the second 9c in the world and obviously the first 9c for him.

DNA consists of a first part of 8c, which culminates with a rest and then some movement that inserts the climber on the first boulder, rated around 8A, really physical and random. After that another boulder problem around 8A+ tests the climber’s level, before the real crux. After this, an 8c+ section separates an excellent attempt from eternal glory.

Before making the perfect attempt, Seb spent several days on the route, in different months of the year. It is not easy to find the right day for a project so extreme… You have to match weather, conditions, training, mental form,… After several small trips dedicated to trying the shot, which at first seems impossible, Seb had it all clear, but then being able to climb it was another matter. After a first visit in early April, the second trip of 2022 was the right one, where everything fits perfectly.

The Verdon is not far from Italy, as it is not from Germany and the Czech Republic… When and by whom the first repetition?

From Seb Bouin

Alessandro Palma