15 Jun Euclase: the 8C+ by Graham!
After a few hints here and there, finally the announcement and Dave’s comments on the ascent of a new kingline in Valle Bavona
The rumor had been circulating for some time, and on the occasion of the video of one of his many other Ticino ascents of last spring Euclase was mentioned. This is the name of a line that Dave Graham climbed in Valle Bavona proposing an 8C+. However, an aura of mystery remained, due to the absence of photos and a public comment by Graham.
However, two months after the climb on April 20th, yesterday the American finally announced on Instagram this ascent, one of the hardest in his career and by far one of the most demanding in Ticino. The top ascent of a Swiss trip in which he climbed a considerable number of extreme lines!
In his Instagram post, in addition to several photos of this boulder problem, Dave describes in detail the whole process that characterized the ascent of Euclase and therefore we report his entire description below:
“On April 20th I finished off my last project of the season in Ticino, accomplishing one of the hardest lines I have climbed to date. I found the line in 2005 and dabbled around on it for many seasons, but never even remotely found the requisite solutions to climb all the moves, until I returned to Bavona this past winter and started delving in deep. The problem looks simple; there’s many holds, most are quite decent, yet all have a strange orientation in relation with each other, and the feet are never in a useful position in relation to the handholds. I spent around 10 sessions to climb all the moves, and another 10 repairing my transitions. Its a labyrinth of grips and structures, all perfectly sculpted on immaculate rock. With 19 hand movements, 21 foot moves, and 4 kneebars, its a game of connecting body positions. It’s one of the most technical climbs I have ever encountered and challenged my ability to toe-hook, heel-hook, knee-bar, and footwork like unlike any other boulder that I’ve tried in my life. The top-out adds a crimpy and dangerous no-fall-zone to the equation, completing the line with a real mental factor. After sending all my other projects it was the last one standing. Around my 30th session I fell off the last move unexpectedly with amazing conditions amidst the strange heat waves, devestated, I thought I missed my opportunity for the year. The boulder seeps, so rain is a real enemy, and with a savage storm looming on the horizon and a super deep cut on my index from repeated efforts on the 3 finger pocket in the crux section, I felt like statistically I had a very small chance to send. I’ve never felt like my whole experience as a climber culminated in one moment, but the day I sent this climb is maybe the closest example. I had one window with the weather, and one try with my cut. Somehow, I started at the bottom, and despite my internal uncertainty, executed the entire sequence, and summited the intense highball at the finish. I would describe it as my pure style, and unless I missed something huge, I’m confident with the grade proposition, especially in comparison to everything I’ve climbed in the past”
Let’s now wait fot the video!
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