15 Nov The art of free movement
by Elena Corriero
He has solo climbed up to 8a+, and red-pointed up to 8c. Matt Bush, 28 year-old, from South Africa, is one of the few climbers who, in the age of sport climbing, practice solo climbing for the love of freedom of movement. Matt started climbing 10 years ago and, 5 years later, began exploring his physical and mental abilities by climbing sport routes… without a rope. He explains that solo climbing requires great preparation and clarity of mind and that the mind can be trained to overcome fear. Putting the ego aside, as he says, not to forget one’s limits and to enjoy the experience in itself.
When did you start climbing?
I climbed trees from a young age like most kids. The inclination to go up was there since I can remember. I started rock climbing when I was 18. I’ve been climbing for 10 years now.
When did you start soloing?
Five years ago.
What drove you to solo climbing?
I was living in a little village between folded mountains in the Western Cape. It’s called Montagu and it’s known for its wine and magical mountain formations. I didn’t always have a climbing partner there, so I would go on solo climbs and find myself high up off the ground. At first I was really afraid of the idea of climbing like this but after climbing a lot of routes in freestyle I realized that the idea of soloing and the reality of soloing can be very different. I would say the drive to free solo climb comes from within me, it’s an experience motivated by the freedom of movement.
Who is your role models for this approach?
Because soloing is such a personal experience I don’t really model other solo artists as such, although I’ve read about Alain Robert, the ‘French-Spiderman’ and I’m really inspired by his 8b multi-pitch solos, done in the early 90s.
What do you exactly like about solo?
The freedom to move with no strings attached.
Are you more interested in the purity of solo climbing or in the risk inherent in it?
I don’t free solo climb as a thrill seeking activity or for adrenaline or the rush. For me soloing is an art form of free movement. Solo involves a process of conditioning to the point of complete trust in myself and the line. It’s a calm, serene experience.
I always climb at my best when I solo but I don’t always solo climb. It’s a part of the climbing experience for me and perhaps the most magical part. I have four points of pro, which are my arms and legs. I learn to use them safely.
Don’t you think that you might give a bad example to other young climbers?
Because I choose to watch proximity flying doesn’t mean I’m going to rush out with a wing suit and jump off a mountain. I am aware of the years of skill and training it takes to proximity fly. There are necessary steps in a process of learning to the point of flying. Likewise with soloing, the movement to big solo climbs is an incremental process and I don’t think my actions determine the actions of other young climbers.
What each person chooses to do, consciously or unconsciously, is their own choice and only they can be held accountable for it. This is existential freedom. I cannot be responsible for other people’s decisions but only for my own, my decisions are my responsibility, when I solo and in life.
How do you approach a solo route? Do you try it first with a rope? How do you decide that the moment is right?
Solo climbing is a journey from choosing an inspiring line to intimate knowledge of the line, the style of moves, the flow, unlocking the sequence so that it’s automatic and unpremeditated. Ropes are almost always part of the process of gaining this knowledge except when it comes to onsight soloing. Ropes enable me to get to know the sequence perfectly so that if I choose to free solo the route, the line is dialed automatic.
Have you ever downclimbed a solo if you realized the moment was not the right one?
Something similar. the route was called Point Break (7c). I climbed into the route and just less than halfway up I started to mess up the sequence. Then I stopped, took a deep breath and channeled my focus. I climbed back into the line and topped out.
What is the most dangerous thing about solo, mentally?
Mental freeze. This is when the body reacts to the contents of the mind (the thought of falling, or loose rock etc) as if the thoughts are happening in reality. This can happen at any point on a route and send a paralyzing fear through the body. Much of my training involves developing controls to deactivate this kind of situation. Mental freeze happens up there on the wall. What matters is how the fear is managed in the moment when it comes on. Acting calmly in the presence of fear is the aim of my training for solo climbing.
Have you ever on-sighted in solo?
Yes, 7a multi-pitch.
What do your friends say about it?
My mates are so positive. I haven’t received one comment like you shouldn’t do that or the like. My mates are down to earth dudes and we care for each other but respect each other’s freedom to choose. They understand why I climb free.
Do you solo when someone is around?
Yes, sometimes a friend will be there or sometimes someone I don’t know. Once I was soloing and there was a guy who was watching from a distance, I didn’t have a clue he was there until he wrote something on a forum about it and I found out later. It’s always different and it all depends on the situation.
How do you choose your climbs?
Mostly it’s about a beautiful line. So it’s a choice made from my perception of what is beautiful and this changes over time. I used to be motivated for cave routes, now I’m inspired by bigger walls. More often my inspiration for a line comes from the location of the route, where it is and the feeling of the place. These natural aspects inspire me.
What are your next projects?
I’m currently sussing out big walls in the Western Cape. Some of them are difficult multi-pitches and others are easier singles. None of my projects are set in stone for now. A big project for now is my sky diving course. This is super motivating, like opening a box with no end and constant surprises. The ultimate adventure for me would involve climbing and flying. What free solo project is next… patience will tell.
