24 Aug Morocco – new route at Taghia
Spanish climbers Pedro Soto, Rubén de Francisco and Alex Corpas originally focused a new route on Tandrarate, then they saw the opportunity to climb in trad style on Tagoujimt wall.
The remained 4 days in the wall, trying to use the less hot part of the day and then descenting.
In the low section they found bolts, but no signs of previous passage. Nothing being reported about, they thought it could be an attempt and followed up from the bolts
On July 20 they climbed on fixed ropes carriyng the whole gear, without rappelling every day: in 7 days the trio first climbed two pitches per day, using trad protections and 15 bolts on the dalle, which are few considering 800 meters lenght.
This is the route they installed:
VÍA SULAYR ( ED+, 7b/+ 800m) 7a obl. 15 bolts
L1: 7a, L2: 6c, L3: 6b, L4: 6c, L5: 6a+, L6: 7a (bolts already in place ) L7: 7a+, L8: 7b, L9: 6c, L10: 7a, L11: 7b/+, L12: 6b+, L13: 6a+, L14: 7a, L15: 6c+.