11 Feb New generation FA – Freissinières

 
French climbers Fred Degoulet and Jonathan Joly have established – on Feb. 9 –  New Generation, a new mixed line that avoids the crux pitch of Mandelbrot, almost never climbable because  very aleatory.
This is a large free-standing detached from the rock for 30 meters and 50m long.
The route The ensemble de Mandelbrot was opened in January 1992 by  Isoard and Ravanat and graded by the first ascensionists V / 6 +.
 
After climbing the first pitch of Mandelbrot, Degoulet and Joly climbed the vertical rock wall on two pitches of M8 and M6 + with bolts and  pitons in addition to friends. The result is in their judgment the best mixed route of the wall.
 
Approach: As for other routes of Tete de Gramusat, L’ensemble de Mandelbrot starts to the left of Lacelle qui reste, route repeated by the same Joly last week. See the video 
Gear for icefalls and, in addition, Friends from 000 to 3 Camalot, doubles # from 0.5 to 2
 
Repeat of  Rappel toi que tu es un gnome.
 

Source and photos: Alpine Guide Jonathan Joly