08 Jul New route in Taghia Gorges for Grmovsek and Krajnc
Recently we reported on this site the free ascent of Donnafugata (Torre Trieste Civetta Dolomites) by the talented slovenian climbers Andrej Grmovsek and Luka Krajnc.
At the end of april 2009, in the heart of High Atlas in the Gorges of Taghia – an increasingly popular ‘Mecca’ for big wall free climbing – the Slovenian pair made the first ascent of one of the most prominent lines on the North Face of Tagoujimt N’Tsoiant 2.977 meters.
The route features a crux 20m roof at 7b and, rather notably for Taghia, was climbed on sight with only trad gear. The route – called Cosmic Roof (Separate African Reality) – follows a system of cracks and offers 350 meters of sustained climbing + 450 meters of easy terrain to the summit of the wall.
The Slovenians completed the ascent in 13 hours and used only quick protections.
This is the final report:
Fantasia, 7c, 450m, Tagoujimt N’Tsoiant, Luka Krajnc, Andrej Grmovšek, Andrej Redpoint
Les Rivieres pourpres, 7b+, 545m, Taoujdad, Luka Krajnc, Andrej Grmovšek, both OS/flash
L ‘ax du Mal, 7c, 500m, Tadrarate, Luka Krajnc, Andrej Grmovšek, both Redpoint
Zebda, 7b+, 260m, Paroi des Sources, Andrej e Tanja Grmovšek, Andrej OS, Miha e Milena Praprotnik, Miha OS
Baraka, 7b, 680m, Ojdad, Luka Krajnc – Alenka Lukić, Luka OS, Andrej and Tanja Grmovšek, Andrej Redpoint
Princes de Msmrir, 7a, 200m, Timrazine, Andrej and Tanja Grmovšek, both OS o flash
Canyon apache, 6c+, 355m, Timrazine, Tanja Grmovšek – Alenka Lukic, Tanja OS, and Milena Praprotnik Miha, Miha OS
Au nom de la Reforms, 6c, 340m, Taoujdad, Tanja Grmovšek – Alenka Lukic, Tanja OS and Milena Praprotnik Miha, Miha OS
Whisky Berber, 6b+, 330m, Paroi des Sources, Tanja Grmovšek – Alenka Lukic, Tanja OS,and Milena Praprotnik Miha, Miha OS
source www.grmoclimb.net www.thebmc.co.uk
upclimbing 2009, june 27