11 Jun New route on Mount Augusta east pillar
After the expeditions in Mali, Patagonia. New Zealand, Greenland, Antarctica and Himalaya, the GMHM – the French military Group of high mountain – had focused this year Mount Logan, which with its 5,959 meters is the second highest peak in North America.
The first ascent of the mountain was in 1925, the second in the 50s and since then the teams that have addressed to the 4,160 meters from base camp to peak (Mount Everest – for a comparison – it has 3,460m), beaten by Pacific bad weather , were very few.
May 27 Lionel Albrieux, Marion Poitevin and Jacques-Olivier Marie succeeded in climbing the east ridge, while almost simultaneously – May 30 – Sébastien Bohin, Sébastien Moatti, Sébastien Ratel (also known as "the three Seb ") and Manu Pellissier after three failed attempts in a week, has made the first ascent (fifth overall) by the East Pillar of Augusta (4,289 m).
After a trip of 15 km on the glacier, the three have placed the first camp at the start of the ridge, under a large brittle rock that forced everyone to sleep with a helmet, but compensated by running water at will .
Starting at midnight and climb on rock bad, "the darkness thankfully spared us horror visions” – Manu Pellissier and Sébastien Moatti write in their reports – and race against time to avoid the effects of heat because the climb is developed on the east.
The second camp at 3400 meters in height after 10 hours of climbing, then the next day in three hours at the top, for the last 900 meters.
The difficulties were assessed for the first part as TD 1300 m on bad rock and steep snow slopes and AD on the last 900 meters, with a descent from the ridge north.
Sébastien Bohin and Sébastien Ratel, with Cédric Périllat, this winter had made the third winter ascent of Manitua at the Grandes Jorasses and Sébastien Ratel the first of an impressive waterfall Sorcière blanche direct at the Cirque du Fer à cheval.
A few days after the team GMHM , on Mt Logan, the Japanese Katsutaka Yokoyama and Yasushi Okada carried out the FA of I-TO the first route on the south east wall.
Ph and video Vimeo : GMHM
Ph Mount Logan : world atlas