23 Sep New route on Presolana di Castione
In Summer 2011, Fulvio Zanetti, partnered by Leonardo Cattaneo, Oscar Fiori, Tito Arosio and Valentino Cividini, has established a new route – “Regina di Cuori”- on the South wall of Presolana di Castione (Orobic Alps near Bergamo – Italy)
The line is 225m long, max 7a+, with an aid point on the last pitch ( obl. difficulty 6c).
Fulvio Zanetti has scored the line when climbing "Col senno di poi" on the same wall. The route was bolted climbing free, except in two points and was called Regina di Cuori, (Queen of Hearts) because "Presolana" is the Queen of Orobic Alps and on the 3rd pitch the rock has the shape of a big heart.
Approach: from Passo della Presolana to Colle della Presolana and follows signs to rifugio Olmo then reach the base of the wall of Presolana di Castione
L1: 6b+ L2: 7a+ L3: 6c+ L4: 7a+ L5: 6c L6: 7a
Descent: rappel or reach the ridge, follow it to the right and descent from the Normal route of Presolana di Castione