22 Apr Patagonia Aguja Guillaumet: variation to Brenner
Colombians Camilo Lopez and Anna Pfaff opened on 2009, February a variation of the classic Brenner Ridge to Aguja Guillaumet (Brenner Ridge – 6a+/A1 – was first climbed in 1981 by the argentinians Eduardo Brenner and Eduardo Moschioni). Lopez-Pfaff variation (6c+) follows first 4 pitches of the classic route, then traverses to left and climbs up an overhanging cracks systems for the next 240 m, the connects it again at the 8th pitch. The itinerary can be approached from Paso Superior or from Paso Guillaumet and was climbed in 30 hours from Chalten village. After climbing Guillaumet, the two alpinists ascendend Aguja Poincenot by Whillans Route. Their South-American trip ended in the Cochamo Valley, with the attempt to a new crack route (Welcome to the Jungle, 5.12? A1 600m), on the right of a large gully in Milton-Adams wall. The proposal of Lopez and Pfaff is to free the itinerary next year.
Source : www.climbing.com