Siegrist frees a new 9b - Up-Climbing

Siegrist frees a new 9b

Jonathan Siegrist frees Event Horizon, 9b.

Dreams are desires and surely Jonathan Siegrist has dreamed of freeing this line for a long time. He was running into 2020 when his hands were gripping the holds of Nu World (9a+), while his mind was already racing up this straight line, the direct exit, the most difficult.

On his Instagram he writes: “All the while I was in Santa Linya I also had this big project back at home on my mind. ‘Event Horizon’ – it’s the direct finish to ‘Nu World’, a route I finished in 2020. I felt in some of the best shape ever after returning from Spain so with some training mixed in, I went straight to work on this monster . It was such a pleasure to unlock the methods and challenge myself on this route, but I was pretty convinced I’d not have time to finish it before my next trip. Just when I started to feel close, of course the stress about the route began to creep into my mind. The route has 3 hard sections: The first a long and sustained boulder problem. The next a vertical ‘Fins’ style crux section. And the final, an enduro technical part with no rest until the anchor. I thought for sure if I made it through the first two boulder problems I would be safe. In reality, when the perfect try came, I was fighting to the death on the very last few quickdraws! Screaming and barely holding on for several of the final moves … Feeling like there’s nothing to lose and every reason to try hard! There’s a lot on my mind these days about my climbing, our culture and our community, but experiences like this transcend it all. It’s truly what it’s all about and I feel grateful for every minute of it.

Doing some math, Jonathan has climbed four 9bs and sixty of grade between 9a and 9a+. His best year was perhaps last year, when at the age of 35 he climbed about ten 9ths. At the moment he is in Ceuse, without a specific route to try, but with the intention of climbing as hard as possible and have fun on the French limestone.

From Jonathan Siegrist’s IG page

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Alessandro Palma