20 Sep 52 year old Stevie Haston redpointed 9a
Following on from his impressive success at Craig Dorys (two new difficult routes), Stevie Haston (52) has returned home to Ariege in the French Pyrenees and realised his long-held dream of climbing sport 9a, with a redpoint of Descente Lolitta at Grotte de Sabart.
This 30 metre severely overhanging route is a link up of the 8c+ he climbed last year, into an 8a+ and then an 8a to finish. Talking to Stevie the day after his ascent, he explained that his trip to Wales probably helped because although he had to mentally try hard while climbing the Dorys routes, physically it was a rest in comparison to his training regime.
Stevie has been on 700 calories/day and got down to 66kg, and commented : "I’ve been stronger but can’t pull on such small holds because of the extra muscle bulk. Muscles are heavy."
Asked what’s next he said: "I really enjoyed myself in Wales, climbing with Leigh McGinley and wouldn’t mind getting back there and seeing what else I could do with this kind of fitness."
"I feel I’ve still got a bit more in the tank and half an hour from my house I’ve a 9a+ and a 9a+/9b project lined up".
Source: DMM UCK