10 Mar 8c+ trad for Carlo Traversi

Carlo Traversi has repeated Magic Line, 8c+ trad.

American climber Carlo Traversi is one of the most transversal pro-climbers in the world. His skills start from world cup races and go up to the big walls, passing through extreme bouldering, hard pitches and trad climbing. Going into the specifics of today’s topic, with the repetition of Magic Line Carlo Traversi becomes the only one in the world to have redpointed two of the three 8c+ trad existing on earth.

The route in question is a nineties masterpiece, freed by Ron Kauk in Yosemite. At the time of the first free ascent, Ron climbed the route in pinkpoint, that is with the protections already in place. Ron proposed the grade of 8c, but his son Lonnie added a plus; in fact he made the first repeat in 2016 and, two years later, the first ascent protecting himself from the bottom.

For this courageous ascent, Carlo took about ten sessions in several years, of which six recently. The process obviously involves first some attempts with the top rope in order to better study the protections, and then move on to the redpoint climb. Carlo says he learned a lot from this climb, in which he sought the perfect moment. His plans now include some bouldering in Switzerland.

From 8a.nu

Alessandro Palma