Pirmin Bertle opens La Barrière, new 9b at Jansegg

Unimaginable link in the difficult Swiss crag

01 September 2018
Pirmin Bertle opened a new route at Jansegg, La Barrière, who judges to be a full 9b, in fact, "it's the hardest shot of my life."

Ok, we're not hiding, this guy always liked us. He climbs hard, very hard. He does it on atypical routes, far from fashions. Search them, sometimes bolt them and free them. All this often, with a wife and two children in tow. And it is not for everyone. The pitch that has just released is not to say the truth an independent and fresh line of nailing but the union of the most difficult sections of other routes of this selective crag in Switzerland, from some time favorite destination and favorite training camp of this unusual climber.

In fact, the Barrière is a long traverse from left to right that cuts through different routes. This was done by Pirmin in 2015 when he had freed Des Scènes Bizarres dans la Mine d'Or (9b, then resized by Cedric Lachat to 9a/+), that starts from the first route on the left, Knacknuss (7b + ) and closes on Jammerlappen (7c +). In itself these routes are not impossible for Bertle. What makes you tremble is the terrible traverse with very hard moves that reach up to 8b, also characterized by deadly monodites.

In particular, immediately to the right of Knacknuss, there are two other routes, A Mourir and Le Roi Lézard, which Pirmin had joined in April, opening Focus Pocus, with a gradation of 9a/9a+. The crucial part is the departure of this length, a short but intense sequence which then follows part of the famous bastard traverse. And it is at this point that something pops into the head of Pirmin.

Also because in the middle there is the crux that actually belongs to another creature still of Pirmin! This is La Cène du Roi Lézard, 9a+/9b which starts on the first section of Focus Pocus, or Le Roi Lézard to close like Des Scénes. In short, the cross is always the same, the one that changed was the first section, difficult to connect with it. The result therefore seems to be something devastating, which led Bertle to try everything, including the sequences he had solved in the past and which gave rise to this crazy new creature.

Now we are waiting as always for the repeaters for the confirmation of the degree.

lizardclimbing.com news


Aequilibrium 740x195

Copyright © Up-climbing.com By Versante Sud Srl
Sede legale Milano via G. Longhi, 10 - Registro Imprese di Milano P.IVA n. 12612150156 REA MI-1569599 - Cap. Sociale euro 10.000,00

Logo footer e307f2bce5042c4e7a257ec709ea497334ec09124162c27e291131063b267875