Marco Zanone, "so I did Coup de Grace, 9a"
Strong italian climber resolved his route of this grade18 March 2019
Marco Zanone arrived at the fateful 9a grade since, a few days ago, climbed Coup de Grace, in Val Bavona! A really important personal success for this climber who for a few years has been doing excellent things both climbing and film editing, being an excellent videomaker.
"The first time I started thinking about Coup de Grace was in autumn 2015, when Stefano Carnati managed to climb this route by marking his first 9a. I remember that it had been a very dry autumn, more than 40 days without rain, in that period I had climbed my first 2 8c + SS26 and Disturbing elements to Gressoney at the crag "La Benedizione". The difficulty itself is felt, at least on a path like Coup de Grace, which turns out to be very complex from a technical and physical point of view, but perhaps, sometimes, the most difficult barrier to overcome is the mental one.
In 2017, when I tried this route more seriously, I felt close to doing it, but between the various school commitments and the limited time to climb, I realized that I wasn't strong enough yet. Although I put my heart and all my energy into it, I fell relentlessly, completely exhausted, at 6/7 holds from the final lump out of the roof and more than "shaved" I was just KO, so I couldn't even be angry with myself because I knew of having given 100%. About 2 weeks ago, I went up to Val Bavona with my brother Andrea and Stefano Carnati to fix a spit that had been removed, to clean the way and obviously to look again for good sensations on the shot.
On the second lap I felt like I had never stopped trying it in the last year, I was amazed how my body still remembered all the sequences to perfection. I was super happy, and the flame inside me started to glow again."