Adam Ondra, second ascent of Qui, 9a+ of 1996

Route in Austria which was one of his oldest projects to close

23 September 2019

Adam Ondra won the first repetition of Qui, a very old route in the Austrian Tyrol of the 90s which is 9a+.

Mission accomplished (as practically always) for the Czech monster Adam Ondra who at the Geisterschmiedwand, in Austria, has finally closed the accounts with Qui, the historic route of Stefan Fürst opened in 1996 and which since then had not seen any more climbs.

Ondra had already tried this route in the past but was unable to climb it, although he already had the level to do it, making it remain one of his rare unfinished projects.

"I spent the last two weeks preparing for the Kranj World Cup race and the Ediburgo Championship. Since the short-term goal is the Lead competitions and since these have a similar character to rock climbing, I took the opportunity to climb the cliff in these days.

On Thursday I finally climbed Qui, 9a or 9a+ on the Geisterschmiedwand, first climbed by Stefan Fürst in 1996 and never repeated since! It is a difficult route that partly follows Wagnis Orange (an 8c climbed by Gerhard Hörhager in 1988, perhaps the second in the world!) To arrive at a bad rest and then continue on a really hard bouldering section.

I tried the route the first time in 2008 and since then another ten times or so but never for two days in a row. The climb was even more special because Fürst was sure to make me safe. For the grade I think it is closer to 9a +. Although some holds have broken since the first ascent, I don't think much has changed in the grade. "

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