5.15b for Sharma

Jumbo Love

26 September 2008 Chris Sharma completed his project at Clark Mountain (California) the name is Jumbo Love, the grade? 5.15b or 9b says Josh Lowell There are only three other routes in the world with this magic grade : Fred Rouhling's Akira, Dani Andrada's Ali-Hulk  and Bernabe Fernandez's Chilam Balam. The first two are long boulder problems the third is a massive 200ft pitch.  The name, Jumbo Love is inspired by the neighbouring route, Randy Leavitt's Jumbo Pumping Hate (8b). Leavitt also originally bolted Jumbo Love like a three pitches similar to Jumbo Pumping Hate. Sharma saw a greater challenge in doing it in one massive 250ft pitch and re-bolted the line to facilitate this. Boone Speed said about the wall, "Fuck, that is the most amazing wall I've ever seen" . Jumbo Love starts with 60ft of 7c, then kicks back to 50 degrees and bouldery 8c+ climbing for a 100ft or so, then get's really hard to easier 8a+/b climbing right to the top of the cliff. Sharma took 100ft falls, as clipping bolts is nigh on impossible as the climbing is so hard, there is one jug on the route. The route tops out. Ethan Pringle has attempted Jumbo Love. Pringle has redpointed  Realisation, and has worked other Sharma routes including Dreamcatcher, Three Degrees of Separation, and Es Pontas (all three unrepeated). Pringle considers Jumbo Love, according to Lowell, as 'leagues above all the others' and "even mentioned that after working on it he'd been telling people it felt like 5.15c to him." (5.15c would be 9b+). (info ukclimbing.com)
Tcpro 740x195

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