Adam Ondra at Smith Rock, among archived and futuristic projects
He repeats Assassin confirming the 9a but maybe there will be something else ...10 November 2018
Adam Ondra moves to Smith Rock and in the famous desert park of Oregon he made the first repetition of Assassin, 9a.
Filed Salathè project, Adam Ondra goes on for his American tour and, in the arid and fascinating Smith Rock, he realizes the first repetition of Assassin, 9a route that awaited confirmation. It was the young and talented Drew Ruana who made the first ascent in 2016 introducing, among other things, this grade to Smith Rock who still did not have a path of such difficulty. This equal realization leads Adam to have something like more than 170 route between 9a and 9c but it is not only this that makes this climber huge. Ondra is incredibly attentive to the local stories of the closing routes and at Smith he met Alan Watts, precursor of American sport climbing who first introduced the spit to the USA.
“It was such a honour to meet Alan Watts yesterday. He is a pioneer of sport climbing in US who put up the first sport (bolted) route in the country in 1982. Before, everything in the US was trad (placing your own protection) or aid climbing. The birth of sport climbing was difficult even in your Europe, but traditionalists were even stronger in USA. He received a lot of criticism, but later on, Smith Rock became popular and international destination for climbers all around the world and sport climbing got accepted even in US. This guy had the vision. Being very strong climber himself, he bolted both To Bolt Or Not To Be 5.14a 8b+ (FA Jibe Tribout 1986, done by Watts a few years later as well) and Just Do It 5.14c 8c+ (FA Jibe Tribout 1992). Both of these routes were the first of the grade in the country. Actually there are still futuristic projects bolted back in late 80's that Alan showed me yesterday, still waiting to be climbed...”
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