Alessandro Zeni announces his first 9b with the FA of Cryptography
In Saint Loup (CH) he closes his most ambitious project05 May 2020
Alessandro Zeni climbed Cryptography in Saint Loup and announces his first 9b.
After two years of traveling and various attempts, Alessandro Zeni has announced the realization of his first 9b, Cryptography, in Saint Loup in Switzerland, born from the concatenation of two mythical routes such as Bain de Sang and BimbaLuna.
It was 2017 in fact when Alessandro went for the first time to this legendary crag to try Bain de Sang, Fred Nicole's pearl of 1993 in grade 9a, but immediately to the right was also BimbaLuna, rated 9a / 9a +, feeling the first and the second more boulder.
So why not try to connect them?
The process was tough and complex both from a physical point of view, where Zeni followed a specific training to further strengthen his already powerful phalanges, and logistical, being Saint Loup at 600km from home.
Cryptography follows the first technical part of Bain de Sang and then joins BimbaLuna and its final crux. In the middle you skip the rest and therefore an excellent physical preparation combined with perfect conditions are essential requirements for the success of the climb.
The degree must of course be confirmed but we will see by whom, given that the route is mainly a route of plaque and not many specialists have a similar level on this style.
What is certain is that Zeni has a great experience on extreme throws. In 2017, the year of the climbs of Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna, he had also repeated the legendary Silbergeier in Ratikon and behind him he already had the ascent, for example, of Solo per Vecchi Guerrieri.
In 2018 he had freed routes such as Black Lotus, 8c + / 9a in Fonzaso, and Energia Cosmica at Bilico, to which he proposed 9a+.
2019 was the turning point with the closing of the competitive chapter and the focus of its objectives only on rock, so much so that towards the middle of the year the climbs of Delicatessen in Corsica, Mingus in Verdon and DonnaFugata on the Torre Trieste arrived.