Carlo Traversi: second ascent of terrible Meltdown in Yosemite

Famous 8c+ trad of Beth Rodden

08 November 2018
"2nd Ascent. Respect to Beth ". So Carlo Traversi writes about his superproject now finally archived. Traversi in fact managed to make the second ascent of Meltdown, trad route of 8c+ who had seen the first ascent thanks to Beth Rodden, who on Valentine's day in 2008 had managed to free something simply absurd.

Located near the Upper Cascade Creek in Yosemite, she had been proven to understand, from unsuccessful climbers the likes of Ron Kauk before the arrival of the San Francisco blonde and then Tommy Caldwell's partner. This was immediately considered as the most difficult route in the valley, which was overcome only years later by the former team mate Caldwell's Dawn Wall. It is one of the most difficult trad routes, perhaps the hardest ever. For now we do not know much more about the ascent of Traversi if not following three months another first repetition of merit, the one that Daniel Jung made of The Recovery Drink in Jossingford, Norway, opened by Nico Favresse released in 2013. Degrees apparently confirmed for both, or at least not denied, which leave the question open: what is the hardest trad way in the world? In any case, Traversi's curriculum is also enriched by this climb which is added to a dozen 8c boulders and a pair of 9a at the crag. Not bad.


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