Matteo De Zaiacomo opens Odissea in Val Masino
At Sasso Remenno crag, a new technical 8c17 June 2019
Matteo De Zaiacomo frees a route bolted a few years ago in Val Masino and for him is a new 8c.
Sports performance for Matteo de Zaiacomo of Ragni di Lecco that on the famous Sasso Remenno in Val Masino, freed an equipped several years ago route and that still awaited the first ascent. Here the technical and feeling climbing as well as difficult to interpret, not surprisingly in fact, another small pearl of the area, Art Attack, has seen very few climbs in recent years. Here is his story of Odissea FA.
"Odissea is a line on the north wall of Sasso Remenno one meter from the road and this makes it very perfect depending on my laziness. It was born from the intuition of Gino Notari and Chicco Fianchi that fifteen years ago they hypothesized the line, imagining to solve the delicate sequence of distant and flattened holds. I have always been fascinated by this vertical line and two years ago together with Simone Pedeferri we begin to study the complicated sequence. At that time I managed to climb Art Attack, graded 8c, and I came to the conclusion that the two lines could be of equal commitment and difficulty, as well as of the same type.
We bolted again Odissea and Simone's expert eye proved to be decisive in the positioning of bolts. I forgot this project for the whole of 2018, also thanks to two annoying fingers injuries, and I managed to get the job again only this year. Thanks to the patience of my partner Katiucia Piazza, willing to endure the Patagonian gusts of wind, which characterize that place of Remenno, I managed to finally guess the sequence and close the accounts with this little "odyssey" of mine. The degree I proposed is dictated by the lack of experience on these difficulties so maybe it is not really up to me to judge the difficulties. To me it seemed simply mega difficult! And although it is a performance of little importance compared to the general level, I thank up climbing for the space in addition to the Ragni Group and the CAAI. "