An extraordinary Melissa LeNevé signs Action Direct first female ascent!
In Frankenjura, the Frenchwoman manages to repeat the historic route of Wolfgang Gullich21 May 2020
In Frankenjura, Melissa LeNevé climbs Wolfgang Gullich's Action Direct and becomes the first woman to solve this iconic 9a.
Extraordinary performance for Melissa LeNevé in Frankenjura where she climbed nothing less than Action Direct, the first 9a in history that ever, from 1991 to today, had still seen a woman's redpoint.
The 30-year-old Frenchwoman, who only a few days ago had the 8c+ of Bionic Commando in Bavaria, has shifted her attention to this pearl of Wolgang Gullich, unquestionably the first pitch of this grade in history, resolved by the German ace almost thirty years ago and since then one of the symbolic routes of sport climbing that cannot be missing from a champion's curriculum.
"... What a journey ... what an inspiring person... what a fight... but also “une histoire d’amour”... everything I searched in climbing.
I was hoping this moment wiIl arrive for ages. Never I would have imagined how emotional it would be to clip the anchor. I totally fell in love with the process, to solve the puzzle and unlock this jump. So obsessed that it thought me patience. Years of commitment, ups and downs, hope and many doubts.
It would never has been possible alone. The frankenjura community welcomed me with an open heart and I’m so thankful for it. The support I received from Fabian and my friends was the light on this journey. Those magical moments in the forest that fulfilled my heart for 6 years."
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