Sergey Shaferov, interview: 9a performance and the development of bolting thanks to the Federation

AtInkorpi frees a new hard routes but the future also reserves more

09 July 2019

We always follow with interest the performances of Sergey Shaferov because it is a very singular case. As many of you have read in our first interview published a few years ago on Up Annuario Magazine, this boy's love for climbing was born as a child, when he spent several months in Italy to escape the radiation that followed the Chernobyl explosion. Over time, animated by a passion and a truly irrepressible tenacity, Sergey has become a 9a+ climber and bolted an incredible number of routes in Russia, in fact now he works for Russian Federation. Fresh from a new first 9a ascent at his landmark crag, Inkorpi, Sergey cu told something about what he has been doing for the past few months.

Hi Sergey, tell us first something about this new 9a you did.
Backaspacer representes a very special route for me, like the whole Inkorpi crag. The pitch is very violent, slightly overhanging, of about 20 boulderous movements that really hurt the skin. Perfect conditions, a lot of technique and maximum concentration are needed in every single single movement. Postponements require precision and are often difficult.

What does this name mean? What's your story?
Backspacer is the name of a Pearl Jam album that I always liked as a band because of their style and character. I bolted it in summer 2015 along with other pitches in the Inkorpi sector, in the forest of the Lietlahti Park, but I started to try it seriously only last year.

In this sector, there are still very hard routes to open right?
Yes, there are about 5 free routes that will all be on 9a/b. Apart from Backspacer, a 9a, an 8c and about 5 shots of 8a/+ are released. Relationships are located on the allclimb and 27 crags.

Are any other climbers trying them too?
Sure. From time to time mega strong people like Aleksey Rubzov, Vadim Timonov etc. also pass by. The sector remains about 150 km from St. Petersburg and 30 km from Finland.

This sector is not the only one that you have bolted right, what have you equipped in these years?
Lately a lot in the Kaucaso area (Guamka cliff) and in the Crimea.

Since last year you are Responsible for bolting of the Russian Federation, what exactly do you have to do?
Practically, when new badget arrives, it is necessary to collect the requests compiled by the regions and rivets that need the material. I have to evaluate who to help first and divide the material with respect to the budget and the requests arrived. You should also contact the companies that make this material and make all payments. At the end of the whole, send the material and collect the photos of the new equipped crags and the work done with lots of articles to be able to put them well on the internet.

Was this job as a manager a new thing or were there other people doing it before you?
Other people were even earlier but in practice they did little according to my point of view.

Do you work alone or do you have a team?
There is always the boss Dimitry Bychkov and thanks to him I have the chance to do this job. For many things related to the internet and computer work, my wife helps me a lot.

What does the Federation provide for work?
Provides resin, pitons, fixes and drills.

So what do you plan on bolting in the next few years and where?
I would like to develop more areas north-east of Russia (Krasnoiarsk and Urals mountains) but there is always the problem of distance and of roads that really suck...

Interview Stefano Michelin

 

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