Stefano Carnati climbs Vortex at Gajum crag for a personal 8c+

Old route with now the first ascent

03 December 2018
Stefano Carnati realized the first ascent of an old route at Gajum crag that for him is a new 8c+.

Next to a new trip to Spain, our Stefano Carnati almost unexpectedly closed Vortex, a long-ago bolted route in the hard cliff of Gajum and which he considers to be a nice 8c+.

"One of the things that gives me great motivation is to definitely see progress over the years! Vortex was one of those route where I could hear this kind of progress! Located in Gajum, one of my home crags, it was one of the last unsaved projects, bolted by Stefano Alippi and Luca Passini. I worked there a few days in the last four years and this winter I wanted to try it in a more serious and definitive way! Well ... it took me a lot less time than expected! Yesterday, the first day of work this year, after double-checking the movements, I found myself passing the rope in a chain! Low gravity days exist !! The proposed grade is 8c + but I could be wrong ... time will tell ... "

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