Another 9b+ for Megos!

Alex climbs King Capella

22 November 2021
Alex Megos climbs King Capella, 9b+.

There are few climbers in the 9b+ club, but everyone there is so strong! German Alex Megos, fresh from the little downgrade of Bibliographie by Stefano Ghisolfi, has come back on rock on one of the most extreme routes in the world, climbing it pretty quickly.

We are talking about the new mini-king line of Siurana: King Capella. It is a short and powerful 9b+ established by Will Bosi during last spring, a real finger test piece! For climbing it, Alex spent two sessions, one during the spring and one one, with an amount of  ten sessions.

"That was the route I came to Siurana for, after checking it out once last March, right after Will Bosi made the FA. Already back then I realized that it suites me pretty well, so together with Jenya Kazbekova we decided to spend a few weeks in Spain to have enough time for hard routes. After nine days on the route and two splits later I could get the first repeat of this very short and very crimpy test piece. I also used slightly different beta than Will taking a very wide pinch, which felt a little easier to me than what Will did. He couldn't do the move the way I did it though, so I guess it's personal preference. Very curious to hear what other people think!"

From Alex Megos’ IG page



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