11 November 2009
Seven days before his 45th birthday, Arthur Kubista - one of the strongest Austrian climbers - redpointed Der lange Atem, a 3 years standing project at the crag of Schattenreich, in the pre-alpine Höllental valley 80 km from Vienna.
A well deserved birthday’s present for Arthur as last year ran serious risk for his health in reason of a back injury.
The Schattenreich’s crag hosts also the first 9a of eastern Austria, Maitre Vauban und der Basilisk, redpointed by Arthur and not yet repeated even if talented climbers have attempted it). Next to this there is another of his routes, Aktion Talon, 8c.
Kubista has done as well many FA in Sardinia as Zigantumania 8c+ at the Millennium cave.
The name of the route “Der lange Atmen - The long breath” drops a hint at the long and strenuous effort for sending the route and to the solved health’s problems of the last year.
Arthur wrote: “ Der lange Atem, 28m long and for which I propose 9a+, can be divided into two very different sections, split by a complete rest. The first - very athletic - is about 13m long, and climbs two roofs and could be graded more or less 8c/c+. I sent it this last year as a route in its own and I called it "Versehrtendachl - Roof of the maimed”, in reason of my back injury. The second part is about 15m long on a overhanging wall, on micro holds. I linked the two sections in the freezing cold of 31 October 2009”
Detailed information will be published end of the year 2009 in Up magazine, printed by Versante Sud by Maurizio Oviglia.
Photos: Arthur Kunista's collection