Laura Rogora: "My priority is now the qualification for the Olympics"

Commitments and expectations of the strong Italian athlete for 2019

11 February 2019

If there is a climber who at this moment best represents the Italian National in an Olympic perspective, that is definitely Laura Rogora. We have already extensively dealt with her, but we have to break every delay and throw ourselves headlong into the preparation for Tokyo 2020 but without forgetting the rock! So, a few weeks from another 9a that projects her as one of the strongest sport female climber in circulation, we talk with her about this 2019 and its unknowns.

Let's start with the national meeting for preparation. How did you go to Trento at the first one of the season?
The training went well. Compared to last years, the organization was certainly better: for two days we had the chance to train on specific boulder on which we have more difficulties helped by Marco Espamer and Jacopo Larcher.

Something changed for you athletes with the arrival new manager Daniele Crespi?
The organization and scheduling of the meetings has improved, also at the beginning of the year he made a meeting with our coaches to understand the needs of the athletes.

What do you think about access of Olympic?
We of the Olympic group will probably do all the dates of the World Cup and, especially among men this will prevent specialists from participating in the competitions for which they have trained. However, this is only a year in which the Federation has had to make the choice to concentrate all its resources for a qualification in Tokyo. The important thing is that the specialist athletes continue to train in such a way as not to kill the specialties for the next few years, even if the fact that they were not fully informed of the situation certainly did not motivate them.

What kind of program do you have for the National team and you in particular this year and what are the objectives not only of result but also of preparation for 2019?
For the next season the primary goal of the national team is the qualification for the Olympics. Obviously this is also my priority so the training will be aimed at the world cup competitions and I will have to, at least for this season, give up some rock.

On a personal level, what do you expect from this season? What goals do you have?
Qualifying for the Tokyo Olympics will be really difficult. The goal will therefore be to train at best to succeed and take advantage of this opportunity to gain experience for a possible qualification in the future.

But also in sport climbing in the rock you are going strong! Tell us something about Escalamasters...
Thank you! It was a rather unexpected performance, before leaving I wanted to climb to Oliana but the fog prevented me. I heard about this route so I decided to go and try it. I found myself immediately very well but it took me a few laps to find the best sequence. On the sixth attempt I was unexpectedly close to doing it, I made a small mistake and fell just before the last hold. After a few days of rest, I went around to clean and on the 8th go I arrived in the chain.

What criteria do you have for trying a 9a?
I do not have a criterion, maybe I hear about it, I watch some videos and if I like it I try…

Is there any thought that preparing for the Olympics can at some point stop climbing at a crag or will it be something that you will still carry forward?
For this season it will be very difficult to carry on both the crag and the competitions: the years spent during the winter preparation period I climbed on rock both on Saturday and Sunday, this year having to add the Speed to the training routine I had to reduce the crags .

Between agonistic and rock goals you will always be very focused on preparation and performance. How do you discharge the tension? How do you "move away" the idea of climbing to relax?
I use rock climbing as a distraction. I have never been able to train specifically for the crags, I find it quite relaxing.

And how's the study?
Well, I'm in the last year of high school science. This year the season will start very soon so I will have to do a lot of absences but I hope to stay behind it: D

Interview Stefano Michelin

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