Schubert on Orca: ascent and downgrade!
From 8c+ to 8b for Jakob04 November 2020
Jakob Schubert has repeated Orca, 8c+, and proposes a downgrade to 8b.
There are many lines that, despite the grade, catch the heart and the desires of many climbers. Noia in Andonno, Hyaena in Finale, Action Direct in Frankenjura: the list is quite long and they are all pieces of history. Orca, the masterpiece by Alex Huber at Schleier Wasserfall has without any doubts its name on the list.
A July, 19 years after the first ascent, Adam Ondra climbed the line, grabbing the first repetition. After his ascent, he proposed 9a. Moreover, it isn’t the first time where Adam proposes an upgrade on a Huber’s line, it has already happened with Open Air and Weisse Rose, for example. Ondra discovered a new beta, different from the one used by Huber, but anyway the battle for the ascent has been long.
Jakob has discovered another beta, that makes the line easier. During a sunny day with his friend, Michael Piccolruaz, he climbed it. With his beta, Jakob thinks that it could be around 8b. Schubert is quite famous for his downgrading without any pity, but this time it is so epic!
As Stefano Ghisolfi said in an interview on ClimbingRadio, the downgrade is a part of the line’s life, beacuse it is quite normal to find some new betas that make the game easier.
From Jakob Schubert’s IG page