The Lonely mountain, the last 9b by Ghisolfi
Another extreme FA20 December 2021
Stefano Ghisolfi frees the lonely mountain, 9b!
Stefano Ghisolfi's contribution to the territories of Arco begins to become truly impressive. Due to COVID, like many other high-level climbers, Stefano has dedicated himself to the territories near his home, building a real playground within reach of a bicycle. After bolting his first pitches together with the legendary Seve Scassa, the Italian talent released these extreme projects one after the other.
After freeing Erebor, Stefano found this new project, which is actually older, but new. As? He explains it to us himself.
"This route is actually the first route I bolted, because it is the original version of Erebor, bolted in June 2020. He helped me by teaching me to bolt Seve, because I just had no idea where to start. As with Erebor, I had seen this line between two others, on a very smooth part, so smooth that it had probably never even been considered as a route. In short, the first route I bolted is this one, but I didn't see holds in the central part. So I decided to add a bolt on the side, which avoided the hardest section, which seemed impossible to me. Then I freed it in early 2021 and it became Erebor. Not happy, I got complicated by rediscovering the original line and, with a little ingenuity, I found a way to pass. I started with the singles, realizing that it was possible, and then moved on to the whole section. Finally I tried again to connect the whole route, like the original form I had given it. In the meantime they repeated Erebor, both Adam and Laura, finding new methods. Erebor and this have the initial part in common, two different central sections and then the same exit, they are equal to 66% here. Both Adam and Laura had found new betas and I started to adapt mine by conditioning them with theirs, finding still different methods! In the end it remained an almost totally new route, I just rediscovered a route. In the beginning, for example, I no longer go into a hook, and neither do I jump. In short, I tried my methods mixed with theirs and found new solutions. I tried Laura's methods and for me they are impossible, as for Adam or ours for her. In the end it is difficult to give a difficulty to this route, because before Erebor was 9b / + and this one was harder. But then the new methods have settled it at 9b, so this one? I don't know, we're not talking about a 6b pitch as a 9c, I gave the symbolic grade of 9b and then we'll see. In short, it could be 9a + / 9b / 9b +, the range is that. I'm happy to have come full circle, a great 2021 started with Erebor and finished with The lonely mountain, which is what I had in mind from the beginning. "
From Stefano Ghisolfi