14 December 2011
Grotta di Pian
Trentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Val Duron.
Approach: Campitello di Fassa. Reach Campitello and park at the start of the “Val Duron” and follow for 50 m the road which climbs to the valley until you reach the water collection building. Climb up faint traces of a path to the right of the building until you come to the forestry track which comes from Pian, near to a bridge. Continue to follow the river until you come to the grotta (cave) (15 min.)
Equipment: 60 m rope, 10 quickdraws, some ice screws
Faces: South, South East
Bolted by Mario Prinoth and Renato Bernard, with the help of other local climbers. This is a good place for training before you move up to the mountains and get confident at “dry-tooling”; the bolting is good, the sun is guaranteed all day long and the setting is beautiful and relaxing. The wide range of routes means both beginners and experienced climbers will enjoy themselves here.
Check very carefully the solidity of the big central icicle especially on hot days! Helmet a must!!!
Routes (from the bottom, before you get to the cave):
Senza nome: D 4. Easy slab
Yaniroquay: D 6. Series of athletic roofs
Night event: WI 5/M 30 m. A new gully equipped for the Christmas holidays... lovely!! The route is almost entirely on ice but is bolt-protected.
Attraverso Pian: D 8. Good traverse, all overhanging!
For Wirpke: D 7+. Technical to start then athletic at the end
Ospiti: D 7. Good for warming up
Senza nome: Pitch1 D 7, Pitch2 D 9. First part technical then strenuous roof
Albertina: M 11+. Lovely pitch that crosses the grotta then climbs the icicle
Per la Madonna: M 10. An absolute must!!
Marlene: D 9. Good pitch up the edge of the grotta...
Iris: D 5+. Technical slab