9b again for Zehani!
Loic frees Chikane21 April 2022
Loic Zehani has freed Chikane, 9b.
The French top climber team has numerous important names within its ranks, with a huge pool of young people who bode well for the future. In case you want a name above all, we could talk about Mejdi Schalk, the talented youngster who is becoming popular in the bouldering world cup. In the field of sport climbing, one of the most prolific is Loic Zehani, who despite his young age already has an embarrassing hard route curriculum.
The latest “prank” he has made is a really extreme route in Avignon. The French climber works hard on hard pitches, freeing several of them thanks to his great desire to discover new lines. His last ascent perfectly represents his way of climbing: it's a hard route, it's an FA, it's in France and many of us wouldn't be able to do it even after years of trying.
Divided into three macro sections, Loic's creation is called Chikane. The route starts immediately violent with a nice section around 8b, with a varied and very complete style. Immediately afterwards you run into an extreme boulder problem, which we could individually evaluate around 8A+ and then culminates with the last physical section full of dynamic movements around 8a. To link all the movements, Loic needed about fifteen sessions, spread over two months, which corroborate the thesis of the young Frenchman who proposes 9b. Attached to this route there are two other lines, says Zehani, even harder while waiting for FA ... We will see some good ones!
From Loic Zehani’s IG page