12 Jul Gabriele Moroni FA in Gressoney
Gabri Moroni has done the FA of a new route in Gressoney: Elementi di disturbo graded 8c+.
From his blog: "Last thursday I climbed a new route in Gressoney.
Name is "Elementi di disturbo", a 25 meters all natural granite route bolted by Alberto Gnerro a few years ago! After 10 easy vertical meters the wall become steeper and here the hardest part of the route is…about 10 hard and technical moves on very bad holds at about 8a+ bloc!! After the crux and a small shake point it follows a resistence 8a route with some heinous moves.
I tried this project for a few days last summer but I didn’t manage to find the right solution for the crux… This year I came back with new motivation and during the first day back on it I was already able to do all the crux moves!
I tried the route another 3 days this year… 2nd day back on the route I found a new higher foot hold and the hardest moves of the crux were a bit less weird!…
3rd day on I fell a couple of times at the last hard move of the crux untill everything finally clicked on my 3rd attempts of the day. Every move felt perfect and I climbed it to the top!!
" Elementi di disturbo" is actually my hardest FA so far and I’m very proud of it. It’s a very good route with a nice line in a great summer place in the mountains…I hope somebody will come to try it soon!
About the grade I’m not really sure because I am the only one who tried it but of course it’s not easy… In my opinion it’s a very hard 8c+(and maybe close to 8c+/9a) but I wait for a repeat to confirm the grade!
source : blog Gabriele Moroni