01 September 2011
There are many interesting places where to climb in the Alps, served by pleasant refuges and in special places, some very famous as the area of Envers des Aiguilles on the French side of Mont Blanc or the surrounding areas of the refuge Dibona, in the Ecrins, just to mention two prominent names.
This time, however, let’s speak Italian: we are near the town of Cuneo, in the Po Valley, and we like to talk about the Refuge Giacoletti, in the area of Mt Viso 3841m, the mountain overlooking the vast plain formed by Po, the main Italian river. It is located at 2741m at Colle del Losas at the foot of the Punta Udine 3022m , near the Punta Venice, 3095m and with the better views of the impressive north-east face of Viso.
Close by there are several climbing routes all fully equipped and clean, routes that are developed on Gabbro, a rock that could seem uninviting, but that gives good grip and adherence. Climbers can find from short sport routes, to those of medium length or long rides on ridge.
The refuge is managed by the Mountain Guide Andrea Sorbino and his family team. The food is good and the atmosphere is pleasant, so to spend a week here is a real gift, and every day you can climb up in different routes, according to the desire of the moment. Andrea has opened most of the routes, and has also re-bolted the more attractive lines, but also the classic grade 4's. as the Eastern Ridge of Punta Udine.
To help Andrea, in addition to his wife and children, there is also Giulio Roberti, a passionate boulderer and talented climber who has done an important exploration of the problems close to the hut, climbing many magnificent bloulders, which then gave a report on the site: bouldermonviso.it .
Some recommended ascents:
Tempi Moderni 300m (5c+ max, 5c obl.) Fiorenzo Michelin e c1995
Alice 120-80 320m (5c max, 5b obl.) Etienne and Guillaume Vallot, Giugiù Roberti and Andrea Sorbino, summer 2009
Diedro Raffi – Rattazzini 250m (6a+ max, 5c obl.) Francesco Raffi and Paolo Rattazzini 1964 nel 2006 e 2007
Cresta Est 400m (4c max 4b obl.) Felice Burdino, Dino Genero, Ettore Serafino 1952. (All gear in place renewed and settled on summer 2009).
Pilastro orientale della Punta Udine 2.900 m
Lo spigolo 90m (6b+ max, 6a obl.) Andrea Sorbino and Pier Giorgio Manavella 1993 (All gear in place renewed and settled on summer 2009).
Sgùra le peile 90m (7a max, 6a+obl..)Andrea Sorbinoand Pier Giorgio Manavella 1993 (All gear in place renewed and settled on summer 2009).
La Fessura 90m (6a+ max, 6a obl.) Andrea Sorbino and Pier Giorgio Manavella 1993 (All gear in place renewed and settled on summer 2009).
Parete est di Pinta Udine
Visto per il Perù 380m (6a max, 5c obl.) Massimo Piras and Paola Brezzo, 1998. (All gear in place renewed and settled on summer 2008).
The last "Bavorak" for Ernesto Bano 390m (6b+ max, 6a obl.) Giancarlo Baret and Andrea Sorbino 1998
Punta Venezia parete est
Via dei Torrioni 350m (6a max, 5b obl.) Ugo Griva and Eraldo Quero 1974. (All gear in place renewed and settled on summer 2009).
More topos and infos http://www.giacoletti.it/ - http://www.bouldermonviso.it/ and the new topo FALESIE DEL MONVISO, 69 climbing sites in Valle Po and Infernotto.
(to buy the guide contact [email protected][email protected])