08 July 2015
From Alex Huber first ascent, Bellavista was climbed by some great alpinists and in 2013 there was the first female ascent by Sasha DiGliulian. At that time, this route was a target also for Barbara Zangerl but she was focused on Trilogy and others climbing projects and also with her work. So time passed till now, when Babsi found time to make another dream reality.
"It was a big adventure. You can’t compare this route to the Trilogy, It is completely different. Bellavista is super steep—climbing on bad rock, It is a alpine route with pitons, only the belays have bolts. The Trilogy is more alpine Sportclimbing, so this one was much scarier for me. In fact the easier pitches, the 7a and the 7a+ before the cruxpitch were always wet…so it was hard to climb these two pitches in a safe way. The risk was big to slip off on every hold there, and a fall on this pitches is not the best option because the protection is not good…really old rosty pitons.
Also the first pitch is dangerous you can’t take a fall there. The crux pitch has more protection and it is so steep that you always fall in the air, you don’t touch the rock. (You have to take jumars while leading, in case you have a fall—that you can go back to the wall) but this makes it safe also when you pull a piton off, you never hit the wall. It is a scary feeling to climb in this big roof: It is mega exposed and not easy to concentrate just on climbing.
The crux pitch has a hard sequence at the beginning and after it is super pumpy ….I fell three times after the crux before, so for me it was the hardest to do the crossmove in the middle of this pitch and I would say this pitch is 8b+. For Christian Winklmair and me it was a really big day. I leaded up to the roof then Christian removed the fixedropes in the crux (where pitons were connected) by somebody we don’t know and then I started a go and reached the belay after a good fight. I leaded also all the next pitches to the ledge and after the 8a there was a spicy traverse which was not easy to read; when we reached the ledge we traversed on the right to the Cassin route and it was around 7pm. Then we changed leading from pitch to pitch. We had to climb the last 9 pitches in the dark, which was a good adventure, but we were very lucky with the weather and reached the summit at 2pm.
It was the first time for us to stand on the top of the west cime, so it was not easy to find the way down in the dark. We didn’t make a brake all the way up and down….because we both had to work this day. So we reached the car at half past 5 and then we drove 4h back to work…"