14 September 2011
Giovanni Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri climbed free on September, 13th a new 40 meters jam crack line, named Bridwell crack, on the south face of Petit Clocher du Tacul, Mont Blanc. Our previous recent report about Petit Clocher is in this our NEW.
This is the report submitted by Lamberto Camurri.
This 40 meters crack straights up the line of Stelle e Tempeste after the 3rd pitch. It is a perfect crack, racing for beauty with Les Intouchables. A short face traverse leads to the belay (cams anchors at the first ascent, then bolt fixed).
"Bridwell crack" is the name of the route, finger jamming, rating 7b/+ (5.12c).
Gear: twice cams from 0.5 to 3 inches (the recommended stuff has been reduced with fixed belays). The pitch ends at the belay over the slot pitch of Tunnel surprise. The route to the top can follow the line of Tunnel surprise on the right (white line). Giovanni Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri climbed the pitch free on September, 13th. The belays has been fixed the next days.
The recommendation for climbing the wall is to begin with Stelle e Tempeste for three pitches, then there are three chances: Stelle e Tempeste on the left (6b+), Slot pitch on center (6c), Bridwell crack on the right (7b/+).