05 January 2012
First repeat - on Jan 3rd - of the link Ice No Thanks + Gelati M7/4+/R on the right bank of Valeille in Cogne (Valle d’Aosta, Italy ) by Enrico Bonino and Giancarlo Bazzocchi.
Gelati M8/5+ was opened by Steve Haston on1995, at the dawn of dry-tooling.
Ice No Thanks M7 was opened by Giancarlo Bazzocchi and Viviana Savin on 2005, and follows a line on the left of the cave (2 pitches M7 and M4).
Enrico Bonino's report:
On 1995, Steve Haston climbed a decidedly avant-garde line with traditional protections (only few boltsplaced by hand on the first meters), and established a route that bypasses the weaker points of a huge cave, until to take an hanging icefall. Since then, the bottom line was never again frozen and formed, and at the same time the poor rock has always discouraged the repetitions.
In 2005 Giancarlo Bazzocchi made several attempts, but he prefered to abandon the dangerous route. But it was a pity not being able to get the top, and decided to come back the next day with the drill to bolt a logical and beautiful route that would allow more secure access to the hanging icefall above.
He came out with "Ice No thanks." a variation of 2 pitches of M7 and M4,which connect the rock to the upper amphitheater. They left a few spits and re-equipped the Haston’s belays, but only until to the penultimate pitch. The exit goulotte was not well-formed and once again the attempt of a repeat failed.
On January 3, 2012 Giancarlo Bazzocchi and Enrico Bonino repeated for the first time the link of the two routes, in full.
It was a great adventure, a journey full and varied in a fantastic environment. Now you can travel in safety and even in those periods when the icefall Gelati does not allow a repetition of the original full itinerary (ie always ...).
Ice No thanks I would call it as a variant of value, because the rock is pretty good, and the route is well protected and follows a logical line.
Approach: from Lillaz along the right bank of Valeille The line is located just before the Stella Artice.
Ascent: L1: M7 bolts and friends, 35m, L2: M4, Spit, bolt in place, and friend, 20m, L3: 4, screws and bolt in place, 25m, L4: 4 + M, 40m, screws and friends , belay on a tree, at the right of the exit of the couloir.
Descent: 1 rappel of 40 meters to S3, and then a 60m to the ground. And in any case can rappel from every belay.
Gear: normal equipment for icefall, Friends C3 Camalot from 0.3 to 0.75, # 3 Camalot, 2-blade bolts.