09 July 2010
On 5 July, excellent performance of the Spanish climbers Manu Córdova and Oriol Baró who repeated (only Cordoba on-sight), in a single day Divine Providence at the Pilier d'Angle.
The route, 900 meters, opened in 1984 by Patrick Gabarrou and Francois Marsigny, graded ABO inf EX 6c/A3 was free ascended by Thierry "Turbo" Renault and Alain Ghersen in 1990 and graded 7c.
That same year Jan Christophe Lafaille soloed the route, emulated two years later in winter by Alain Ghersen.
The first on-sight was done by Swiss Mountain Guides Denis Burdet and Nicolas Zambetti on 27/28 July 2002, while the second on-sight bears the signature of Slovenians Andrej Grmovsek and Marko Lukic in 2003 that degraded to 7b +.
In August 2009, a team of GEAN, " groupes d’Excellence Garçons et Filles" leaded by Stéphane Benoist repeated onsight the route.
Manu Córdova and Oriol Baró have bivouacked at the base of Pilier Angle and in 16 hours have completed the ascent , probably the first onsight done in so short time.
Oriol led the first part, the easiest one, while on the 9 difficult pitches Cordova leaded, followed by his partner climbing with jumar on one of the ropes of 8mm.
They topped out Angle Pilier at 21.00 and after a break summated Mont Blanc at 4:30 in the morning, accompanied by a strong wind.