Jasper and Schaeli first redpoint of John Harlin route
On Eiger's North Wall
15 October 2010
Mountaineer Robert Jasper (42), one of the world's best climbers, together with his climbing partner, the Swiss professional mountaineer Roger Schaeli(31), succeeded on a new highlight. on the Eiger North Face, as they carried out from Sept 20-23 the first redpoint of the world famous John Harlin-Direttissima with the Heckmair Exit.
The so-called John Harlin-Direttissima (1800m) is one of the most challenging routes worldwide and provides high difficulty on rock and ice. (Mixed M8 / rock 7a; E5; The 44-year-old bolts of the first climbers were very doubtful…)
The ascent would have been very dangerous on summer and too cold In winter, so the two professional climbers chose the autumn.
"There was a balance between what is just acceptable and the risks in the wall" - said Jasper - "I have already taken 20 years ago in winter my first attempt at this route. Alone I had to turn back. "In three further experiments, I have gained the necessary experience. You have to know what is important. When I for the IMAX Film climbed along with the son (John Harlin III) by John Harlin II, who had in 1966 a fatal accident in the first ascent by a rope break through the Eiger North Face, I went very close to his family tragedy. "
"Climbing on this legendary route, I would often think of the drama. As I was leading the pitch in which, John Harlin II had in 1966 his fatal shooting, my thoughts were on the risks on the mountain and to my own family, that was very difficult. This route was for me the most emotional climbing of my life!"
Robert Jasper and Roger Schaeli reached the summit of the Eiger - after 3 days on the wall - at 8:30 PM where a few meters below the summit, on the sharp ridge the put their third bivy.
The descent on the following morning by abseiling back on the 700-meter-high south wall to civilization.
Source: Robert Jasper website
Ph : Frank Kretschmann