Eiger “Chant du Cygne” Jordi Tosas free-solo

Piola and Anker 1992 - 900 metri 7a

17 September 2009   In August Jordi Tosas - Spanish Alpine Guide and very talented alpinist -  soloed without rope Le Chant du Cygne by Michel Piola on Eiger North wall.   Tosas had already climbed the itinerary and knew as well the route beside - Les Portes du Chaos - where he could repair in case of any emergency, but just in the first section. because in  no chance to retreat in the 7a  upper part.   A friend climbed with him on the first pitch, to make some photos and then rappell with the only rope.   Tosas soloed as well “Pilasta dels Voltors” on Mont Rebei and Jonathan Larrañaga’ route on Congosto del Ventamillo, la “Ternura Congosteña”.   On the north of Eiger he soloed on self belay Urs Odermatt' Griff ins Licht (1800 m, 7c and M5), and in Himalaya climbed  Magic Line on K2 and new routes and made solo attempts as on Lhotse South wall up to 7500m.   Last moth he took part to the unlucky attempt of Oscar Perez rescue on Latok II.   source:desnivel   ms
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