05 September 2009
Piedra Riscada is located in the State Minas Gerais, in the interior of Brazil, north of Rio de Janeiro: the mountain is imposant and beautiful with 1200 meters of steep granite wall.
Even if talented climber judged unclimbable the steepest wall, Stefan Glowacz, together with Holger Heuber, the Brasilian Edemilson Padiha, Argentinian Horacio Gratton and photograf Klaus Fengler, redpointed a magnificent route of 800 meters 18 SL IX degree /7b/c).
The line was equipped with fixed ropes, and the team spent 4 nights on the wall.
The route was named The Place of Happiness and is the most difficult and demanding route of Brazil.
"The biggest problem was the rock extremely compact" - Glowacz said - "two pitches had to be protected on bolts, and it was long and boring"
Next november, Glowacz 'll be back in South America (Patagonia) together with Horacio Gratton.
Stefan Glowacz was one of the best climber of the world; after many success in competitions,(he won the first of the world in 1985 in Bardonecchia and 3 Rock Master) since 1994 he dedicated to expeditions everywhere in the hidden parts of the world with many first ascents in Venezuela, Patagonia, Greenland, Canada and Antarctid.
Holger Heuber performs many sports: he climbs and does paragliding and kayak at high level; together with Stefan Glowacz travelled everywhere and is considered as "the one giving calm influence to the team "
The photos are of Klaus Fengler: for seven years was in expeditions with Stefan Glowacz, in Mexico, Kenia, Patagonia, Baffin, Iceland and Venezuela.