11 December 2009
Bozeman Daily Chronicle reports that World-class Canadian climber Guy Lacelle, 54, died in an avalanche Thursday morning while participating in an ice-climbing competition in Hyalite Canyon.
He was climbing up a small gully near Grotto Fall, with local guide Adam Knoff, who was not injured in the avalanche.
Guy was one of more accomplished ice climbers in the worlds, his ascents including the first solo link of the Terminator/Sea of Vapors and the Replicant in five hours; Weeping Pillar and Polar Circus in a day; French Maid, Curtain Call and La Pomme D’or in Quebec; Au-delà des Ombres in France; and Hydnefossen in Norway. He won the Festiglace Competition in Quebec in 2004, and the ice competition in Ouray in 2000 and 2001.
In an interview given to Alpinist he said that “solo ice climbing satisfies a need deep inside of me that cannot be solicited in any other way. It helps me feel more confident in my daily life.”
He was also asked in that interview, “Do you accept death as an outcome of free solo climbing?” He replied: “I would say that death is a possible outcome of free soloing, but so is rope climbing and driving a car. For me death means losing the game, and I hate losing. I don't live as close to the edge as I used to do. I am a little more comfortable with keeping a better margin of safety then I used to, but I still feel most alive when soloing serious climbs.”
Guy was born in Ontario in 1955 and lived in Prince George,British Columbia - Canada.
source: Bozeman Daily Chronicle