23 June 2010
Marco Schenone is a talented climber and explorer based in Genua (Italy), with an extensive experience of climbing the mountains of North Africa.
Marco carried out, together with Sabrina Gasparini, a new route in Algerian Hoggar. in January 1st, 2010
Here his report:
“The route was climbed in one single day, on the SE wall of Fesses de la Vieille in the area of Tihoukine. The rock is a nice flakes-granite and the environment is perhaps the most beautiful of the whole region!
The route was climbed from the ground-up and is fully equipped with bolts - 200 meters, 4 pitches of 50-55 meters each, difficulties up to 5c
There are 2 incredible domes that rise up to 300 meters from the sand: on the East dome there was already an equipped route carried established the French climber and mountain guide Thomas Dulac while our itinerary is on the west. The approximate altitude of the summit is about 800 meters, the climb can be done only in winter, bringing plenty of water!
The belay of the fourth pitch is not easy to find, at the end of long diagonal up to the left. Then to the top for 60 meters more on easier face climb.
Descente on the opposite face.
Diff: max 5c + in the first three pitches and 4c + on the last, but should not be underestimated.
The name of the route LA COMBRICCOLA DELLA MEZZALUNA is the name of a book written by Sabrina. "