23 October 2010
Japanese climbers Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka “Jumbo” Yokoyama were awarded today with Asia Piolet d'or (president of the Jury Denis Urubko).
The team have completed in May 2010 one of the great unclimbed walls in North America: the south face of Mt. Logan, Canada’s highest peak and the second of North America. Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama climbed in alpine-style and completed the ascent to the east ridge in 3 days, then reached the following day the east summit.
The well known American alpinist Jack Tackle considered this line on Logan to be his “last great project” and helped the Japanese climbers with photos and advice, so they named the route I-TO, which means thread, line, relationship.
Katsutaka (31) and Okada are members of the so-called Giri-Giri Boys: in 2005 Katsutaka with Fumitaka Ichimura completed the second repeat of Denal Diamond and in 2008 the link-up of the Isis face, Ramp Route and Slovak Direct on Denali . He receveid in 2009 the Piolets d’or nomination. Okada has done many significant ascents in Himalaya, including Meru Shark's Fin in India and a new route on Tengkangpoche in Nepal.
The ceremony of the Piolets d'Or was held today in Korea. Sport climber Jain Kim (now leading the general ranking of WC lead) won the 'Golden Climbing Shoes', and Hee-yong Park the ‘Silver Shoes’.